When Chai,
Chai first came out, I had read about it and felt I should buy and read
it . . . I spoke about this book to a friend of mine and he came up with a
strange kind of response . . . hey, he
has written about where-all he got down from the train and where-all in those
towns he went to drink . . . I wondered how far this could be true . . .
this friend could sometimes be way off the mark . . . and he has a healthy
disregard for people who drink . . . so, I wondered . . .
I first came across
Bishwanath Ghosh through his blog, On the Ganga Mail, when I was
generally googling about Mont Blanc fountain pens and read a post about his
visit to Varanasi and how he had to unwillingly keep his wallet, Mont Blanc FP,
watch, etc., with a shopkeeper while he went inside the temple . . . and since
then I have followed his blog regularly . . . (now I too have 3 Mont Blanc FPs!)
And whenever I used to
visit Bishwanath Ghosh’s blog, which was not very frequent mainly because he
writes fewer posts now than earlier (2 till the end of April 2015, 9 in 2014, 12
in 2013, 27 in 2012 . . .) (he has
suddenly increased his output in May 2015!!), I used to see the ‘Buy Chai,
Chai’ button and continued to wonder . . . and in a recent post, he
wrote about how it’s been more than five years since Chai, Chai was published
and still continues to do well . . . and how his two later books, though
written with much more discipline, awareness, and research than Chai,
Chai are not as popular . . . and he writes about how Chai,
Chai has been received by readers, and quotes their responses . . . I decided
. . . I have to buy Chai, Chai and read it . . . and I did . . . bought it online and read in a day . . . chapter-wise . . . or rather, station-wise...
And to my surprise, he
says in the ‘new preface’ to this edition, how Chai, Chai was received
kindly by reviewers and readers, but there was one recurring complaint, ‘that
it contains too many episodes of my drinking in the local bars’ . . . I found
that bewitching . . . I could have said ‘honest,’ but lots of writers are
honest anyway . . . and he goes on to say how he was being faithful to the
narrative by describing things as they happened to him . . . and he writes some
more about the inevitability of it all . . .
So, what about the
rest of the book? This post is only about
my responses to the book, and not a review . . . firstly, I thoroughly enjoyed
reading the book . . . what with me being as curious as Bishwanath Ghosh about
places like Mughalsarai, Itarsi, Jhansi, Guntakal, Arakkonam, Jolarpettai, and
Shoranur . . . places that you see only
railway platforms of . . . I used to think about these places, but then the train
moved on after replenishing and refreshing itself . . . it was only after my father was
transferred to Sultanpur in UP, that I saw the platforms of Mughalsarai,
Itarsi, and Jhansi . . . but
Jolarpettai, Arakkonam, Shoranur were familiar platforms for our family as we
moved around Tamil Nadu and Kerala and Karnataka in trains . . . there were
other places too in the recent past as the trains chugged from Hyderabad to
Howrah . . . and from thereon to Gaya . . . I saw only the platforms, and now don’t
even remember the names . . . and somehow one place name keeps coming up again
and again . . . Bongaigaon . . . I know it is in Assam, a place I have never
visited . . . maybe it is a leftover name from my days of reading Railway
Timetables . . . ha ha ha . . . ever done that?
The concept of alighting
at transit stations where, except for the residents of these places, no traveler
ever thinks of going, is itself extraordinary and beguiling . . . but I am sure
many of us, train travelers of some vintage, would have wondered however
briefly, what went on in these towns . . . are Arakkonam’s and Jolarpettai’s
claim to fame only their railway stations? Or Shoranur, for that matter . . . Chai,
Chai fulfils this desire in more ways than one . . . now we know a
little more about Arakkonam and Jolarpettai, not to say Mughalsarai and Itarsi
. . . these stations have become intervals in our journeys across India by rail
. . . one measures the remaining distance or time depending on when the train
reaches these places . . . aah, two more
hours . . . enna, vandi late-a oduda? . . . aaf-en-avar-le
Jolarppetai vandudum, sar . . . says the tea-man . . . or pantry-car person
. . . time to get down, stretch one’s legs, see if you can get today’s ‘English
paper,’ which could well be yesterday’s with today’s date, and carries news
about things that might well have taken place on another universe altogether,
except for cricket and films, of course . . .
The bars are all there
. . . and Ghosh is clearly enjoying his time in them . . . the lodges, and the trouble
he undergoes finding a room in one of them, the taxi journeys from the ‘centre’
of the towns to the ‘peripheries,’ his visits to ‘historical places,’ and
temples, are all narrated with a great deal of involvement and interest . . . and
towns like Arakkonam, Jolarppetai, and Shoranur, where Ghosh sees nothing to
involve himself in and therefore less interesting, are dispatched in double
quick time and space without dishonest lingering on . . . and it
comes out very clearly that Ghosh has taken this journey seriously and is as
curious about these places as many of us would be except that he alights and
comes out of the railway station . . . and sees the town and smells the whisky
. . .
Chai, Chai reminded me of two books . . . one
is Upamanyu Chatterjee’s English, August and the other is
Pico Iyer’s Falling off the Map . . . for entirely different reasons . . . Chai,
Chai evokes the small town feeling that is marvelously depicted in English,
August . . . a feeling of ennui
. . . especially for someone who goes there from a big city or ‘metro’ . . . you
don’t know what to do . . . Pico Iyer’s Falling off the Map is subtitled ‘some lonely places of the world’ . . .
though there is a difference in scale, experience, and style, Chai,
Chai is conceptually similar . .
. in Bishwanath’s Ghosh’s book one slides off these familiar platforms and tumbles
into their unfamiliar towns . . .